Well, a project I had been working on at Mortor Rock finally went, I dunno if this had been done before, the holds I used seemed to be used as gastons on two different problems rather then sidepulls for this 'double arete' bulge problem.
The problem starts just under 'the wave' start on some underclings and uses the first few jugs of 'the wave' to gain two sidepulls to use as a double arete. You then work your way up the bulge to some sharp slopers and topout, the problem has some cool knee-barring techniques. Topping out straight up over the sharp slopers probably goes at like v7, while if you topout right or left on better holds probably goes at v6.
Thursday, January 25, 2007
Black Plague (v6) or Pinkey Paralasys?
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5 comments:
Is this on nEw Wave and Jungle Fever right near the jug haul of a four The Ramp? I wanna try this but I dont know. maybe Sunday.
oh now I know what this is. I think this is Pinkey Paralysis which is and old three. the WAVE is the thing the Ramp is on?
this is the bulge just left of the jughaul on 'the ramp', you use the bulge like a double arete, squeezing (sort of).. i probably would need to show someone.
ohhh the Bulge of Nat's? if your in teh gym sometime I'll ask you cause it sounds fun but I dont know where it is.
Hey Matt check my blog for the pic at mortar I think I know where it is now. but I might get out there once this rain stops.
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