Rainbow/Donner 10/27

headed up to Donner/Rainbow after, well after a nights sleep after the concord comp.

drive was not bad, we had Brett, Pascale, Taz and myself.

I brought them to the yosemite boulder near the 1070 house, we got on all the good problems, brett got sweet n' low, I worked out some of the moves on it and made some progress. Pascale got on the rail crack and owned the thing, she was a really strong climber and did really well, considering she said she had never done anything over a v1, she cranked out the v4 rail ;) good job!!!

we then headed up to a project I found a few weeks ago. we worked out the stand start, but the sick sit start was.. how you say... haaaaaarrrrd Pascale actually had an easier time with the lower moves because she was a bit shorter then brett and myself.

after that, we headed up to donner summit to get on white lines! I made negative progress on the problem :( , brett was able to make it up to the slopey ledge and making the move out to the face holds, and Pascale was able to get some of the hard first moves worked out.

we gave up on white lines since it had been in the sun all day, we decided to head back out to rainbow and go the jawbone boulder. we got over there and did a whole slew of the awesome problems around there; the lone asthetic arete, the short bulge and a few of the slab problems. Pascale was ripping it up on the steeper stuff, mad props to her for working out a few v4's that took me a while to get ;)

brett got some awesome progress on ismael, he got up to the sloper and he got up to but did not latch the layback/crack that gets you over the lip. i did not make much progress besides working out some better footwork, i was pretty beat from the day and my muscles stopped working!

had a great trip with brett, pascale taz and myself.

Castle Rock State Park

Well, Brett & I were thinking about heading to the valley for the whole weekend, but I had a party friday night and got wasted... was not going to make a drive up to the valley after I had only 2 hours of sleep. we decided not to drive up sunday either, but decided instead to do a session at Castle Rock.

i was soo lazy on sunday, that I barley was able to head out to the castle that is the rock. i had been ughmm *COUGH COUGH* being lazy all day with the dog, took him to the park to get some excersize out of him and see if there were any weekend hotties, sat around and read 'watchmen' by Alan Moore (great book by the way) till it was about 2pm, we were tenativley meetin around "3ish".

drove out to the park and got there around 3:30p. headed up to the magoo's to meetup with Brett. warmed up on Mr Magoo, screwed around on some misc stuff, and then cranked out Bates Problem. its a decent problem, the stand is just one hard crimp move up to a decent sloper, then easy topoout.

we then decided to hitup the hueco wall. this is a pretty cool problem; sit start on large hueco, hit intermediate hueco, then bump up to bigger/decent hueco with a little incut option on it. then setup for a huge move up to a huge jug, pretty fun crankin off the not-too-great hueco. i didn't get the problem, but on my last ditch attempt, i got up and overshot the huge jug :*( next time gadget...

then headed over to bates arete, this is such a cool classic problem, definatley one of the best problems at the park there.

after that Brett wanted to get on 'cave route' witch looked sweet as hell and I worked out some of the moves, but was beat by then; the climb goes up some large jugs to a hueco undercling witch you get this high foot and use a lot of body tension to slap up the arete to a decent notch/hold and then hump up the arete ;)

I had a great time in Castle, I usually hate the place, but we got on some of the good problems and I had a really fun time, it have me a new perspective on the area and I actually like it now :)

stoneface park..

well, i was supposed to head to tahoe with brett to get on white lines but i had some stuff to do on sunday, so we didn't head out.

i felt an itch to get on some rock still though, so i decided to head out to berkeley to kill a few hours on the rocks there.

i went to stoneface park, i had seen it before but never really went to check it out. the boulder there is actually pretty sweet. there are a decent amount of trees on the steeper side, but i got on two problems there.

one is 'the great stone face'. v4 stand/v7 sit. the sit starts on a layback rail, then look like goes to a pocket and then to a decent pinch jug. from there, it is the stand start of a big move up to a good edge then you hit the top sloper and jug. fun problem, i did the stand but didn't really get on the sit.

the other problem, i dunno the name, but it starts on a large shelf than goes to two underclings, then a left hand crimp, to another undercling and then you hit the top and its an easy topout. this was a fun problem that went up the 'face' on the boulder.

didn't really get on anything else, just started a little project and then headed out.. hella little kiddies walking around swordfighting with sticks heh, funny stuff.

all in all, i was glad i was able to get out for even a little bit.

-bler