Sunday, April 15, 2007

Yos (april 13,14)

Cave Route/Sentinals


Went up to the valley for the weekend with Scott Monica and Drew Dog..

We started at the Sentinals at the midget boulders to warmup on. Scott brought me over to a problem he had put up a while ago (Sent Arete) that was really cool, it has some technical/powerfull moves down low, then some really technical moves to gain the lip. I found some new beta that may make it a lil bit easier. the line is definatley ***.

We then headed down to the B1 boulder and I got on No Holds Bard & Cave Route, both great problems. I got beat up so I didn't finish either of them, but I got most of the moves worked out. I had some trouble with the first strong move of No Holds Bard.

We then headed in for the evening to camp.

Saturday morning looked like it was pretty overcast, and we didn't really get an early start. We headed to Camp4, warmed up at the wine boulders then headed to the Goodrich Boulder to get on Tendons Give. This problem is awesome; long, pumpy, with a definate crux in the middle. I had worked out some of the moves a while ago, but I put it all together to get all the way up to the last few moves, but my lack of endurance pumped me out. I can't wait to get back on it and blast through the thing :)

I did a problem that may be a new one, it starts on the lowest jug just after the crux of Tendons Give. It goes up to the crimp you use for Tendons, and then you use a crimp in the small seam and another little fin to gain a good jug up top and a fun mantle. If it was an FA, I am naming it Moss Monkey.. I think it went at v4 maybe because it used some smaller overhanging crimps.. no one else around tried the problem, so it will need a repeat to get a solid grade. We did get rained out and spend the rest of the day at camp.

While drinking i was upset because we got rained out and decided to go check out this project I have seen a few times a little better. It is awesome; starts on a prow, matched on this huge pinch. you then move to to another pinch that is a flake with your right hand. then move to this undercling/gaston thing. then it looks like you grab some bad sloper pinches and the crux is through here to get to a really good ledge (hasn't been cleaned yet, so there may be more then meets the eye). from here you mantle and then a little slab bit.

I had to head back home; luckily enough I made it back home through the snow without getting stuck in the valley and missing work the next day :)

An awesome trip ! And I'm so glad to get back into climbing and be out in Yos again :)

Monday, April 02, 2007

Stinson/Mickey's

Z and I headed to Mickeys & Stinson on friday.

we hitup stinson first. we headed to the are you experienced boulder and got on the v4 arete first. the sit-start seemed like it was pretty hard, you start on a decent shelf and then huck up to an undercling. I was able to find a decent edge to avoid the huge undercling move, but this was my warmup and the crimps weren't feeling so great so we decided to move onto another problem. Next we got on this cool problem called 'super slope'. you start on good holds, then move out to a gaston, where you get a heel hook and rock all the way up to this huge bulge. but it's not over yet.. you then move to the lip witch is just bad slopers :( didn't get the finish, but the bottom steep moves are great fun.

We then headed over to the south-side and got on High Rev Motorsports.. neither of us got it, but we made some good progress... I started some work on a crack problem that goes up the north face..

great day of climbing, espically since it had been quite a long while since i've climbed !!

YAY Z :) looking forward to getting out to the valley soon :)