Monday, November 26, 2007

ya mon we goin' to beee shawp

Well, ya know, like I was saying.. some days your on, and this weekend was one of them.

I made a trip out to Bishop for the holiday weekend, I figured there would be a shit load of people there, but the pass was open and the temps looked pretty good.

I headed out Wed. night with the dog. We stayed at Harden that night, then headed to bishop in the morning after. Finally got to drive through Tioga pass for the first time, and man is it beautiful up there!! so many domes and so much rock, and water!! awesome, I definitely gotta get up here when the temps are a lil warmer and the windchill isn't -20. there looked to be some nice boulders up at the high elevations through that little corridor.

So, after not really stopping and Taz jumping in the water, literally coming out an icicle, I headed down the pass to Crowley Lake and down to Bishop.

First stop, the milks.. so I got out and headed straight to the green wall. I had been reading about it and really wanted to get on green wall center. So I figured I'd warm up on the other problems on the wall. I got on Green Wall Essentials and got up to the jugs a few times before I topped out. Ultra Classic problem. I then did the arete and got on this crappy ass v5 on the back that isn't named, it would be a decent problem, but there is a small boulder that is really in the way and makes it contrived. So I headed back to check out the center line, I checked out the starting holds and what appeared to be the moves, but decided to either get two pads or wait till later.

So I started to walk back to the car and saw a few people on Cave Route. I had got on Cave Route a few times years ago and remember the move. It is really a crux move from one huge flake, up to a little lip like thing facing right then a huge move up to a jug. I figured that I would give iti a go, I was decently warmed up. So I gave it a go and didn't remember my feet so I figured out where I would place my feet and got a little beta to match on the decent hold as an intermediate to go up to the jug. So I hopped on with the good beta and sent the thing. woohoo, a successful send, I worked my ass off for it a few years ago and then came back and send the thing. What is more fufilling then climbing something that once thwarted you and now feels so easy. No matter what the grade or style of climbing, that is one great thing about climbing.

Well, after that, it was definitley time for some grub. So I headed back to the truck to cook up some food. I cooked up some grub and hung around. I saw some friendly folk hanging around talking about some of the Tahoe bouldering, so I got the real deal about the bouldering in solake Tahoe. I'll have to head up hopefully before snow sets in to get on some of the stuff.

After that i headed back to check out Soul Slinger. There were some others on there already, so i hopped on. I got up to the pinch, but was not grabbing the hold the proper way, I lost some skin, so I figured I'd lay off and save my skin!

I wandered around and then headed over to Get Carter boulder and saw a fuckload of people there, so I headed back to setup camp in the pit. Camped in the pit, you know the usual, cook food, drink beer, sleep.

The next morning I woke up and decided to head back out to the milks. I saw Dan in the morning and said that he was heading out and Scott may be out there too so I figured why not. I headed out and there were a boatload of people there, all over the place.

I figured I would warmup on the birthday boulders, there were already pads all over, easy as pie. So I got on all the good easy stuff and warmed up. I got on Birthday Center and thought it was pretty weird and didn't like it. I then wandered around to see what I wanted to get on. I walked by the green wall and saw a bunch of people there and decided to get on the center, I was already warmed up good. So I go down to wait for my turn and someone there is working on it and gives me some beta on what some people do and i give it a go and flash the damn thing. It does really have some good moves and considering I'm a pretty hardcore yos climber, the moves came pretty easy.

After my adreneline wore off, I walked around and saw some others on High Plains Drifter, witch I know is a classic! So I decided to get on it and wow it is an awesome problem. I was able to get the first moves down but then fell off going for the sloper, the obvious crux. It had some hard moves and hurt my fingers, but some other girl sent it! I then saw a few girls on Popes Prow and decided to get on it with them. One of the girls worked out some outside edge smear foot beta that worked well for me too.

Now I dunno, but she used a move that I suprisingly had seen before, its the 'leg lift'. Seriously, you use your hand to lift your leg into position to put your foot on a foothold. i had seen it a few weeks ago in yos on a problem called Team effort where someone was fully mantled on used their other free hand to lift their leg and put it on a foot hold. I think this is a legitimate move!

Well, we worked out some of the moves and then Daniel, Brodie and Thomas came over to work on the problem too. We all got on it and got some decent progress, but none of us got it.

They went up to get on Siagon and I headed down to the car for lunch. After grabbing a bite, I headed up to the Five and Dime Boulder and did a few problems on that. The boulder has some cool patina on it and some decent problems. I then did a crimpy problem on the backside of the Flyboy boulder that was ok, just like one or two moves. Decided to end the day on that.

Headed back to the pit and ended up hanging out at Daniel's camp till pretty late. They mentioned hitting up the sads the next day and my tips were pretty beat so it sounded good.

The next morning I was tired as hell and decided to probably just do a photo day, I figured I would cruise by the milks and see if anyone was hanging out there and I saw Scott! They had all setup around the birthday boulders and I got on the Birthday Center problem and did it, I personally don't think it's all that great of a problem, but some disagree. Its just got some weird moves that I don't like doing all that much. After that, Scott wanted to get on Stained Glass, so we headed up there to get on it.

There was already someone there checking it out. I decided to take some photos since I wasn't getting on it. I was able to get a great photo out of it of Thomas, the only guy to send it, I posted on http://blerphoto.blogspot.com . This is such a cool problem, it is a awesome looking brown/orange dihedrial with some serious crimps up a thin crack. This is a problem that is definatley on my ticklist!

After that we all headed down to the Tut boulder and I was able to send the Tut variation that is actually a really awesome problem with fun fun moves! I had worked on this thing years ago as well and got shutdown at the last move, witch is actually pretty tricky.

After that, Scott and I headed to Junior's Achievement, a crimpy ass problem up some decent patina. Scott and I got on this years ago and this time we didn't really get much further then that once haha. I think I'd have to have some energy and crimping powa' to really send this thing. After that we all were pretty beat and decided to call it a trip.

Drove home through the pass with a little light left to catch the scenery!

AWESOME TRIP, god I love Bishop, maybe I'll move there someday but I'm stuck here and have plenty of climbing here in yos and tahoe to keep me busy for a long time!

No comments: