Monday, November 05, 2007

some days your on..

and some your not :)

This weekend was one that I was not on.. but I still had a blast climbing and got some decent pictures!!

Brett, I and Taz headed up to the valley this weekend. Now don't get me wrong, I love bringing Taz, but the valley is not a great place to have dogs (espically a husky pup who wants to roam free everywhere). i realized that it is kind of a pain bringing him, so i think i'll be limiting his trips up there for both our own good (i'm sure he doesn't like being tied up in a place he thinks he can roam free at).

so we headed up Saturday morning and got in around noon. on the way in, we spotted a few fellow climbers that we knew and stopped by the LeConte memorial to warmup there. we warmed up on a few of the short steep problems just next to the memorial and then headed up to the prowess/torque boulder witch has some awesome problems on it.

Brett got up Torque quickly, i turned my back and he was already at the top of the boulder. he also did rabbit habit, witch was also a really cool problem, betabase just put up a vid of Courtney doing it here. i got on Torque and got most of the lower moves down, but for some reason was not able to put it all together with the few attempts gave it. i think i got all the moves, i just need to work on stemming out and the problem should be over for me as long as i can stick with it through the striking topout.

a whole bunch of climbing went down on that boulder so i'll let the pictures do the talking.









after that, it was time for a night session on the flat line boulder. we had a cool night sesh setup with a whole crap load of lamps, I got on 'flat' and worked out the first few moves a lot better, but didn't get the problem. Brett and i walked to chocholate bunny and got on that. i worked out most of the moves, but didn't get the problem, Brett got it pretty easily after a few tries and working out the moves, he said it felt way easier now then it did last time, hopefully it will be the same for me!



then we headed back to Harden to camp. i was tired as hell so we passed tha' fuck out.

the next morning, we headed to check out happy isles. we found a whole bunch of boulders with potential, but i can see why no one wants to boulder there, its a fucking madhouse (and this is in the off season). i convinced some tourists that taz was a wolf that i had captured and they took pictures with him.

i did find a few new lines on a pretty decent boulder i named 'the impalation boulder'. one is a shorty on the backside that I named 'old beer can' from the old ass Budweiser can i found just next to it, the problem probably went at like a v2? but it was fun either way, the other was a project that i started to clean.

so i cleaned a few small crimps down low and looked like the problem would go up these heinous crimps to a huge block, but Brett noticed the block looked really loose and cracked, so we threw a few small rocks up at it to test it out and the fucking thing fell, hard. it IMPALED my CRASH PAD !!! it went through the crash pad and about 6" into the dirt, the edge was razor sharp and pointed like an arrowhead. good thing this did not fall on me or a spotter, it would have been instand death. thanks for saving my life Brett!

needless to day some duct tape fixed it good. thank god for this stuff, it works wonders.

the project will still probably go, but will be much harder now. so i call it the 'impalation' boulder.



we then found a few other established problems that were fun. one was a cool dyno problem that was great fun! it was behind the obvious face climb right on the trail, it starts on a large sidepull and a crimp and goes up to a huge shelf. it is a lot of fun and went at maybe like v4? i'll get these documented here soon. here's a pic of Brett on the dyno.



after that we decided to head to good ole' camp4. we wandered around and found some friends getting on King Cobra witch is such a classic **** problem that climbs a tall, proud and very challenging dihedral to a jug system.

we decided to get me on 'the font problem' and then go up to 'honor among thieves'. i got on the font problem and worked out almost all the moves but didn't link them all together. this is such another awesome problem, although it is low (espically the start where you basically dig out so your heels do not touch the ground) it has AWESOME moves on it and the holds are great. from a crimpy start to a jug, then an awesome move where up to match on some cool slopers and then more sloperfest up to the top. i definatley gotta do this thing next time!




Brett got on 'honor among thieves'. this is another awesome problem that i overlooked and didn't think anything of it, but Brett got on it and showed me the moves. the moves looked so fun i am now really stoked to get on the thing! Brett worked out the sit-start and almost all the lower moves, but it was the last thing we got on, so I know he was tired as hell. he should be able to send the thing next weekend!





so that was that, we decided to head back to the bay, what a great trip, see ya next time!



-bler

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