Castle Rock State Park

Well, Brett & I were thinking about heading to the valley for the whole weekend, but I had a party friday night and got wasted... was not going to make a drive up to the valley after I had only 2 hours of sleep. we decided not to drive up sunday either, but decided instead to do a session at Castle Rock.

i was soo lazy on sunday, that I barley was able to head out to the castle that is the rock. i had been ughmm *COUGH COUGH* being lazy all day with the dog, took him to the park to get some excersize out of him and see if there were any weekend hotties, sat around and read 'watchmen' by Alan Moore (great book by the way) till it was about 2pm, we were tenativley meetin around "3ish".

drove out to the park and got there around 3:30p. headed up to the magoo's to meetup with Brett. warmed up on Mr Magoo, screwed around on some misc stuff, and then cranked out Bates Problem. its a decent problem, the stand is just one hard crimp move up to a decent sloper, then easy topoout.

we then decided to hitup the hueco wall. this is a pretty cool problem; sit start on large hueco, hit intermediate hueco, then bump up to bigger/decent hueco with a little incut option on it. then setup for a huge move up to a huge jug, pretty fun crankin off the not-too-great hueco. i didn't get the problem, but on my last ditch attempt, i got up and overshot the huge jug :*( next time gadget...

then headed over to bates arete, this is such a cool classic problem, definatley one of the best problems at the park there.

after that Brett wanted to get on 'cave route' witch looked sweet as hell and I worked out some of the moves, but was beat by then; the climb goes up some large jugs to a hueco undercling witch you get this high foot and use a lot of body tension to slap up the arete to a decent notch/hold and then hump up the arete ;)

I had a great time in Castle, I usually hate the place, but we got on some of the good problems and I had a really fun time, it have me a new perspective on the area and I actually like it now :)